Day Four
Remote Air base in the desert – I’m up before the sun
because, between all of the coffee and tea I had consumed and the jetlag, sleep
was not an option. I hit the shower, which left me wide-awake because both the
hot water and the shower curtain were missing from my VIP suite. Breakfast
consisted of eggs, flatbread, olive oil, a pile of green powdery stuff, yogurt
and some unidentified sweet cubes… but no silverware. I learned that you don’t
need silverware because in Jordan flatbread can scoop, sop and scrape an entire
meal. Who knew?
The road to Amman – After another morning of inspecting,
detecting and selecting aircraft the General and his driver came to pick me up.
They drove me to Amman via a different “highway” than we used the first day.
This “highway” was a mostly paved road through the Northern Bedouin Tribal
region of Jordan that was almost wide enough for two cars to safely pass each
other… almost. We passed more tent dwelling Bedouins, free roaming camels,
herds of goats and a huge UN refugee camp as we played high-speed chicken with
oncoming traffic. It was at once intriguing, fascinating and terrifying or, as
they call it in the Middle East, a leisurely drive in the country.
Greater Amman – We arrived in the city several hours before
my 1AM flight so the General dismissed his driver and we set out to see the
local sights. I saw women walking downtown wearing shorts and tank tops, which
struck me as odd until we were cut off in traffic by a woman wearing a full
burka driving a red Ferrari, which set a whole new standard for weird. We drove
by Mt Nebo where Moses found the Ten Commandments on the way to Madaba where we
strolled through a Christian church over 1500 years old, which is just down the
street from the Mosque of Jesus. I
decided that Jordan is like an interesting woman; mysterious, beautiful, a
little scary and full of contradictions.
Day Five
Somewhere over the Mediterranean Sea – There are no business
class seats on the red-eye flight from Amman so I reserved a window seat on the
emergency exit row to ensure I had room to stretch out and sleep during the four-hour
flight to Paris. What I hadn’t counted on was the five year-old kid sitting
behind me whose little legs were just long enough to kick me square in the butt
through the back of my seat … which he did every time I started to dose off. I
was going to complain to his father until I discovered the poor bastard was
traveling alone with an infant and the pre-school hoodlum behind me. I figured
this guy was about one stressor away from going full jihad so I shut up and sat
on my pillow all the way to Paris.
Air France Airbus 380a seat 85G (upstairs) – After arriving
in Paris and fighting to stay awake through a four hour layover, I am finally
strapped into my luxurious business class seat on the upper deck of this giant
European flying machine. There is no juvenile assailant behind me, my seat is
actually a recliner and they’ve given me a pillow and blanket to snuggle in for
a long snooze during the almost twelve hour flight to San Francisco. Minutes
later as I doze off it hits me; the first gurgle in my gut then the first
desperate run to the restroom. I had experienced Montezuma’s Revenge but this
was my first experience with Mohammad’s Revenge; which is basically the same
thing except it only hits you when you start to fall asleep. I spent more time
in the head during that flight than I did in seat 85G!
Back in the good ol’ USA – My arrival in San Francisco and
continuing flight to Reno were relatively uneventful; apparently it’s a lot
easier to enter the US than to leave it. My gut was still conducting regular
terror attacks on me so I stopped eating and only drank enough water and coffee
to keep me awake for the final drive home. I was sitting on the couch at home
regaling my family with stories of camels and armed Arab women when I literally
fell over asleep on the couch.
I slept hard for several hours before I woke to that
familiar gurgle and made the dash to the head. I’ll bet it was that green stuff
I had for breakfast … maybe I was supposed to season my food with it instead of
snorting it.
It’s good to be home!
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